Forget Delhi or Mumbai, Bangalore or Chennai—here’s 7 reasons why Kolkata is my favorite Indian megacity.
Kolkata is one of India’s largest cities, but these days it’s often overlooked by tourists. Most foreign tourists begin their Indian adventure in Delhi or Mumbai, and ignore the eastern part of the country entirely.
Their loss!
Over the last year, I’ve spent more than a month getting sucked into Kolkata. Though the cacophony of horns, hawkers, and humanity was overwhelming at times, the city is a treasure trove for those willing to take the time to get to know it. I know I’ve fallen for Kolkata; here’s seven reasons why:
1. Bengalis do it big.
Bengalis are an exuberant bunch—spend a sunny winter Sunday picnicking with them and you’ll see what I mean—and their holidays are just as extra as they are.
From the impressively ornate celebrations of Durga Puja to eccentrically festive Christmas, Kolkata knows how to throw a proper holiday party.
Come at the right time of year, and Kolkata will besiege your senses with glittering idols, lurid decorations, and enough lights to power several more cities. Just be sure to book your hotel ahead of time—holidays in Kolkata are famous across the country, and you’ll have to compete with millions of other visitors for a room!
Protip: Planning your Kolkata adventures? Book hotels on Wego.ae to ensure you have a place to rest your head after exploring!
2. Kolkata is a budget foodie paradise.
With its thousands of dishes and cuisines and flavors, India is already heaven for foodies, but Kolkata takes things to the next level. You can easily feast like a king or queen in Kolkata for next to nothing.
Dig into a pile of steaming rice and sumptuous mustard-battered fish for 50 Rs, with as many rice refills as your heart desires.
Or chow down on an overflowing plate of chicken biriyani loaded with egg and potato for 80 Rs.
Terracotta cups of chai are yours for 5 Rs, and a heaping cone of puffed rice and other noms known as jhalmuri will only set you back 20 Rs.
My personal favorite: beef kathi rolls for 17 Rs apiece. How is that even possible?!
3. People aren’t out to prey on you.
In some Indian cities—coughDelhicough—men with malicious intents flock to new tourists like swarms of bloodthirsty mosquitoes. Ready to do whatever it takes to part you with your money and/or belongings, constant battle with Indian scam artists and touts can be tedious on the best of days.
Aside from some women pleading for milk and men prowling Sudder Street offering a variety of questionable services, Kolkata is free of such characters. If someone on the street approaches you with a smile and a greeting, you can rest assured they’re just being friendly, not plotting ways to slip into your wallet.
4. It truly is the cultural capital of India.
Culture in Kolkata is everywhere… if you keep your eyes out for it. It might appear in the trivial form of a vendor reading a book on the street—seriously, that never happens elsewhere—or it might explode in your face if you’re courageous enough to tell someone you don’t know who Rabindranath Tagore is.
(For those not in the know, he’s one of the most famous Bengali writers, and a Nobel Prize laureate.)
Bookshops line the city’s streets, art exhibitions and theater performances are everywhere, and you can even spot men listening to vinyl albums on the streets at the right time of day.
Protip: Kolkata has several train stations, but most long-distance trains actually come in at Howrah, across the river. From Howrah, it’s only a short taxi or bus ride to Kolkata. So if you’re looking at trains to Kolkata, also look for options going to Howrah. For easy booking, I suggest booking India train tickets with 12GO.
5. The city is timeless.
Look past the malls and brand-name shops blossoming to appease the masses of Bangladeshi tourists on shopping holidays, and you’ll find a city rich with history of all ages.
Magnificent British-era colonial buildings tower over the streets at the city’s center. Rusty trams rattle up and down the city’s streets at a snail’s pace. Iconic yellow Ambassador taxis careen down busy boulevards. Stepped stone ghats line the Hooghly River (locally known as the Ganga) in the northern neighborhoods of the city, there are so many places to visit in Kolkata. Men drink local brews inside dark old bars far from pedestrians’ prying eyes. Devotees perform puja at centuries-old temples in the same way as their ancestors for generations before them.
Kolkata is a city with a history to tell, for those who stay long enough to hear it.
6. It’s a harmonious melting pot of religions and cultures.
Head to the Tiretti Bazaar early Sunday morning and marvel at the sight of Chinese aunties selling dumplings right next to Indian men hawking desi versions of the same.
Stop by the Jewish Nahoum & Sons bakery in December, and you’ll have to fight for a place in line with those waiting to stock up on Christmas cakes.
Stroll through Kolkata’s neighborhoods, and you’ll find that the oldest church in Kolkata isn’t British—it’s Armenian.
Head to the Alimuddin Street for a bite, and you just might find some real beef fresh from the halal butcher despite Hindu nationalists’ efforts to ban the slaughter of cows.
Kolkata’s Jewish population has dwindled, but the result is admittedly beautiful. Knock on the doors of Kolkata’s synagogues, and you’ll probably be greeted by a Muslim caretaker. A shining example for the rest of the world!
7. Kolkatans love Kolkata.
In Delhi, everyone is from somewhere else and few Delhiites seem to actually enjoy living there. The wealthy upper echelon of Mumbai loves their city, while the rest of the city bemoans sky-high prices, a cold population, and sickening congestion. Bangalore has been overrun with techies looking to prove how modern and well off they are, pushing culture to the sidelines.
Kolkatans, on the other hand, are in love with their city. Though they still admit that their home has its flaws—as does every city—you can often see a sparkle in people’s eyes when they speak of Kolkata.
In a big city, atmosphere is everything, and having millions of people warmly welcoming you to a city they love makes all the difference.
Hi Alex
I love this article and the photos that go with it! I feel i agree with all of it – Kolkata is definitely my favourite big indian city. It is worlds apart from Delhi and Mumbai and the people seemed happier and more laid back.
This makes me think the 4 nights I planned and am going to start in a few days is not enough.
Thanks Alex for writing this lovely post about the city being a Kolkatan its lovely and heartwarming to see someone praising loads about your home. Yes it has its flaws but those are far less then the warmth and energy it brings to everyone.
I have been living in America for nearly 32 years, away from Kolkata (previously Calcutta) where I spent nearly 37 years from my birth. With all my international travel experience, I must say Kolkata is a complete city and it has a place for everybody, rich and poor. As Satyajit Ray wrote ” If you can survive the initial assault of the city, you will slowly fall in love with this friendly city” (not exact quote).
This is so well written. It’s hard to believe that you are not from India. If I hadn’t read the name I would have assumed this was written by some Indian person who has lived in different parts of the country. Regarding your last point – it’s spot on (specially for Bangalore). As a Delhiite I would just like add something about Delhi – you are right that even people who are born and brought up here complain about it, but they still wouldn’t want to live anywhere else.
Being from Kolkata, I am very happy to see a traveler truly appreciate this amazing city. Cheers and happy adventures!
Just loved the article. I found everything is so true. I also love Kolkata and invite all to come and enjoy the festivals of Kolkata: Kolkata Boi Mela (Kolkata Book Fair), Kolkata International Film Festival, Durga Pujo, Kali Pujo, etc. Apart from this I would specially welcome you all to have sweets of Kolkata: Rashogolla, Sandesh, and all their varieties…. For people from outside India, there are several places within 300 to 400 kms of Kolkata to go and enjoy for a day or two like Shantiniketan, Bishnupur, Digha/Madharmani, etc.
18 yr old Calcuttan Guy here and I approve this post and tbh even I haven’t been able to discover the entire of Kolkata in 18 yrs of my life living here 😂 (But you missed you something!!! , Do visit the hustling market of Gariahat, the lush eco park , the dhakuria lake and many more places!!!) Never the less I really loved the points that you covered!❤️
What is always missed by one and all is West Bengal, with Kolkata its capital, is the only stretch in the world that has both ocean and the highest of mountan peaks ( the Himalayas), with Kolkata as the spring board. The ocean has the sunderbans – the largest delta forest in the world, and the Himalayas that needs no introduction – with impeccably heavenly beauty and bliss. Darjeeling and North Sikkim need no mention. Kolkata is also unique with innumerable water bodies and greeneries dotting all over her landmass. The political class, both in the state and in the centre have so far failed to understand then create a world class circuit, has only lived on monotonous sea beaches.
The cultural depth of Kolkata has spread far and wide, so need not be talked about.
My Army days did take me to places and people.
Lovely travelogue of Kolkata… It’s a pot-pourri of so many cultures existing harmoniously for centuries. Having been brought up in Mumbai as a probashi I can say I’m a true blue blood Calcuttan. The old world charm, the beauty by the ‘Gangar Dhar’ is so idyllic and nostalgic, not to forget the various cuisines, a heaven for a foodie like me The culture and the celebrations are so magnificent. It has something to offer everyone. Kolkata is so very close to my heart and I enjoy spending all my vacations there. All should visit Kolkata and experience my City of Joy to believe it.